Aug. 22, 2023 12:30 pm ET
AS I WATCHED Ghily Guetta cook in her sunny kitchen in Rome’s Piazza Bologna neighborhood, I couldn’t help but notice just how many expressions of tomato lined her countertops. A wide bowl brimmed with a mix of petite cherry tomatoes and oblong Romas. A tube of brick-red tomato paste lay half squeezed and waiting on a saucer. And standing at attention were a half-dozen glass bottles of passata, the uncooked, unadulterated tomato purée beloved across Italy. Nearly every pot that Guetta, 34, stirred on her stovetop in preparation for her family’s Shabbat dinner that evening simmered with something fragrant and red.
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